Trattoria Luzzi - Rome, Italy

Via dei San Giovanni in Laterano
(On the corner of Via Celimontana, near the Church of San Clemente)

We wanted to eat where the locals eat, and still be near the biggest tourist spot - the Colosseum. Our B&B hostess suggested one of her favorites - Luzzi, which is just a 5 minute walk from the Colosseum.

That day, the weather was gloomy, hinting of rain. The surrounding neighborhood was empty and quiet. But as we walked closer to the restaurant, we heard the clattering of glasses and plates and people's voices talking over one another. They sat us inside, which was so tight. We had to squeeze our way through and the waiter had to pull out the table just for my husband can sit. There was practically no space between me and the next person.

I have to say the service was horrible and the staff was brusque and rude. When we sat down, my husband said "thank you" in English. Big mistake. The waiter muttered something rather rudely in Italian and the couple next to us were laughing. From then on, it took us a long time to order, to get our food and to get our check at the end. Though I'm sure the slow service was due mostly to the big crowds. Good thing we weren't on a time schedule. If you're planning to have sit down meals in Italy, I think 2 hours need to be allocated.

Anyway, on to the food. I ordered the Penne all'Arrabbiata, a traditional dish from Rome and central Italy. A very simple dish with tomato sauce, garlic, parsley, and red chili peppers cooked in olive oil. This pasta dish was excellent. The sauce was light and sweet and the peppers gave a nice kick to it.

My husband ordered the Rigatoni all'amatriciana - tomato sauce, guanciale (pancetta or dried pork cheek), and red chili peppers. The sauce was really good, similar to the arrabbiata, but more dense because of the pork flavorings. However, the rigatoni was undercooked! It was still edible, but very disappointing.

The dishes were only 5.50 euros each which was great. Plus, it is conveniently close to the Colosseum. It's worth a stop to Luzzi, but be prepared for the unfriendly staff and the long wait. But I guess everything in Italy is slow. Trains, buses, food service. But you have no control. Just go with the flow and enjoy.


Anonymous said...

Very much suspect that Trattoria Luzzi described in this posting is actually in Rome, not Florence.

The Colosseum was my first hint.

TNT Adventures said...

Anonymous - Fixed! Thank you!

Anonymous said...

We had GREAT service at this trattoria! As a matter of fact, we ate their twice during our stay in Rome. Great atmosphere!!!

Dottore Bartolo'98 said...

Great food,especially the penne all'arrabbiata.