Showing posts with label Florence. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Florence. Show all posts

10.10.2009

Gelatissimo!

Nothing is more satisfying and refreshing than a cup of fresh gelato while touring the beautiful Italian sites.  We had gelato just about twice a day (at least).  Here's a compilation of the delightful gelaterias we visited. 

Gelateria Stalin (Via Visconti, 24, Vernazza, Cinque Terre)
After ordering your gelato, sit outside around the corner at the benches and tables or head down to the scenic harbor.
 
Il Gelato di San Crispino (Rome)
Via della Panetteria (near Trevi Fountain)
Some say this is the best gelato in Rome. I ordered half Ginger and Cinammon and then Honey Cream (3 euros for coppetta).  Both were very creamy and wonderfully flavorful.  They're served in a cup only, no cones. Grab some fine gelato and people watch at the nearby Trevi Fountain.

 
Old Bridge Gelateria (Rome)
Via dei Bastioni di Michelangelo
Before heading to the Vatican, we stopped for some gelato, because we were expecting to wait  a couple of hours in line for the Vatican Museum. For only 2 euros, you can get 3 huge scoops of different flavors.  What an amazing deal! Can't miss this gelateria with the long lines. Even nuns frequent here. Some of the flavors shown below are pistachio, coconut, nutella, chocolate, strawberry and lemon. We even got more gelato after we finished touring the Vatican and St. Peter's Basilica.  (Hint: We went to the Vatican at 12:30pm after the tour groups left, and there were absolutely NO lines!)  


Gelateria Centrale (Monterosso, Cinque Terre)
There were quite a few of Gelateria Centrale in Cinque Terre.  Two actually in Riomaggiore.  We got our staple flavors: strawberry and lemon - a delicious contrast of sweet and tangy.
 
Gelatissimo - (Florence)
Via di San Giuseppe, 4R
This gelateria was a bit off the beaten track.  It was still refreshingly good and smooth, but nothing incredibly special.  We got our usual flavors: strawberry and lemon.


Gelateria Carabe (Florence )
Via Ricasoli 60r
Located a block south of the Accademia, we got to try homemade Sicilian gelato with ingredients shipped in from Sicily.  We wanted a break from the creamy gelato and ordered the granita (slush-type dessert/drink) which originated from Sicily.  Again, we got strawberry and lemon.  It was quite refreshing and you can taste the real flavors. It's usually served with a spoon and straw to experience both of the flavors.
 
Festival del Gelato (Florence)
Via del Corso 75r (just off Via dei Calzaiuoli)
This gelateria can't be missed with the big neon sign and the colorful decor inside.  It's just a few steps from the most touristy and busy street of Florence - Via dei Calzaiuoli (it's the long pedestrian street that connects the Duomo with Piazza della Signoria).  Strawberry and lemon granita once again. And again, so refreshing.
 
Giolitti (Rome) 
Via Uffici dei Vicario 40 (Near the Pantheon)
The most popular gelateria in Rome.  And the most crowded.  Get in line to pay first, receive your ticket, and then go to the gelato counter to order your scoops. It has excellent gelato - creamy and very smooth, but can be pricey. My husband and I usually share, which consequently means we have to compromise. I like chocolate; he likes fruity flavors. So we asked the guy what "fruity" flavor goes with dark chocolate.  He scooped for us watermelon with chocolate chips and cantaloupe, topped with whip cream. Strange combination of flavors, but surprisingly, they all went very well together. 



 
La Boutique del Gelato (Venice)
(corner of Salizada San Lio and Calle Paradiso, next to Hotel Bruno)
The only way to know Venice is to just get lost. We weren't looking for La Boutique but stumbled upon it as we were exploring the city. I was so excited because this gelateria is considered the best in Venice.  It's recommended by every guidebook there is. (I might add that I spotted at least 10 people a day with the Rick Steves' guidebooks). Anyway, out of all the gelato we had on our trip, no other gelateria is as generous with their scoops as La Boutique (2 euros for 2 ginormous scoops) They were HUGE and I had to quickly eat it before it quickly melted away.  Definitely a must visit!
 
Michielango (Venice, Italy)
Salizada Pio X
This place was not as generous (probably about half the size of La Boutique and was more expensive (2.5 euros for 2 mediocre-sized scoops). I guess the location is convenient though - near the Rialto Bridge.  I would pass on this and find La Boutique del Gelato.

9.06.2009

Osteria dei Cento Poveri - Florence, Italy

Via Palazzuolo, 31-red (Santa Maria Novella area)
50123 Florence, Italy
Tel. 39.055.21.88.46
www.icentopoveri.it

Cento Poveri (which translates to "one hundred poor people") specializes in not only Tuscan food, but serves Mediterranean cuisine. Going on a friend's recommendation, we decided to taste a bit of real Tuscan food.

To reward ourselves of our all day adventure of Florentine sightseeing, we somehow managed to order food beyond our stomach capacity. My husband ordered the "Taste of Tuscany" special, which could have been easily shared for 2 or even 3, but being overindulgent, we also ordered a huge appetizer and another main entree.

As for this Tuscan prix fixe menu for 35 , it came with an appetizer, pasta, steak, and dessert. Since it was labeled "Taste of Tuscany," we thought it was just that. A taste. Like a tasting menu in the States where the portions are no larger than a closed fist.

But we were wrong. Each "taste" could have been a meal in itself.

First from the prix fixe menu is the Salami Toscani, Formaggi e Miele (Tuscan cured meat with cheese and honey)
I never had salami and cheese with honey. That was very interesting. But I guess that is equivalent to the figs or other fruits to balance the saltiness with the sweetness. We had 4 different salami, each one delivering a slightly different taste. I liked the more mild and less meaty flavor.
Separate from the tasting menu, we also ordered a mixed crostini appetizer that were topped with pâté, cheese, tomatoes and mushrooms and lightly decorated with very spicy arugula. By this time, I was getting a bit full already.
Next on the tasting menu was Pappardelle alla Chiantigiana e Risollita alla Toscana (Broad pasta ribbons, chiantigiana, and Tuscan soup with vegetables and bread). In Italy, pasta is served first (the primi), then once you're done, the meat dish is served (the secondi). Flavors in this meaty pasta was delicious bold but not too intense.
The last "taste" was the Bistecca Alla Fiorentina e Patate Arrosto (Florentine steak and roasted potatoes). It was enormous! Really, I don't know how one person could have finished this meal. The server quickly walked by and told my husband that he had to finish all the food or else he'll be washing dishes in the kitchen. The steak was cooked nicely for medium rare and was pretty juicy.
As for my one and only entree, I ordered Chitarrina allo Scoglio e Pomodorini (fresh pasta with mixed seafood). The portion served here was incredible. Lots of mussels, clams, calamari, and shrimp. The noodles were different than what I had tasted before. They were thicker, but less dense and somehow managed to hold the wine sauce really well.
Everyone knows the saying..."there's always room for dessert." That's not always true, especially after this meal. Here is the Budino di Castagne or chestnut pudding. Okay, we did have some room, but not much. It was like a caramel flan with sprinkled brown sugar on top. Very delicious!!
The restaurant was a bit away from the main central area, still walkable, but maybe take a bus or taxi if your feet is tired from walking all day. We sat in the more quiet, dimly light, rustic side of the restaurant. There was another side that I think serves pizza and was more causal, loud and bright.

I would definitely come back here but definitely share this scrumptious tasting meal with another person. FYI, although we didn't finished everything, we didn't have to wash the dishes.

8.26.2009

Trattoria Mario - Florence, Italy

Via Rosina, 2/R
Florence, Italy
Tel. 055.218550
www.trattoriamario.com
(Closed Sundays and holidays, and the whole month of August 2009)
Open for lunch only, cash only

Behind Mercato Centrale, there's a very small restaurant, but you can't miss it with all the magazine and newspaper food reviews plastered on the door and window of this trattoria. This place is known for its homestyle Tuscan cooking, especially the Florentine steak. Come early or be prepared to wait.

Ordering may be a bit hectic if you don't know what to order. There is one big menu inside on the wall, and one menu outside, so take a look at this first.

The restaurant is very crowded and the seating is communal. We sat at a table for 4 with another couple from South America. Then, in the middle of our meal, they finished, and a couple from New York replaced them and sat with us. It was an interesting and fun time to share our travel stories and food experience with each other.
Italian bread is no good unless you like the taste of dry cardboard. They bake the bread without salt so it's tasteless. I also rarely saw restaurants serve bread with olive oil and basalmic vinegar. Is this an American thing?
Bistecca alla Fiorentina is served rare with a nice lemon slice. They slice up the raw meat in the kitchen and bring it out to the customer to inspect and approve before grilling it. The hearty steak had an excellent salt-crusted exterior and a warm, juicy rare interior. This dish is good for two and comes with a side. I squeezed the lemon atop the meat and I savored every bite of the steak.
We ordered a side of french fries, but the last batch had just been ordered by the South American couple who sat at our table. (But they were very kind enough to share their fries with us when it came out). We ordered the fresh tomatoes instead that was nicely drizzled with salt and olive oil. Great balance to the hearty Florentine steak.
To refresh our palettes, we had the melon. (For some reason, my husband was craving melon and ordered it, sometimes with prosciutto, almost at every meal).
This restaurant was recommended by a friend who travels to Italy every year and what a great recommendation it was! The Florentine steak here was excellent and I would definitely come back here again. (FYI-There is a bathroom towards the back outside, but it is a hole in the ground. I panicked a bit because I thought the running water was going to flood).

8.22.2009

Il Pizzaiuolo - Florence, Italy

Via de'Macci 113/R
Firenze, Italy
Tel. 055.24.11.71
(cash only, reservations required, closed Sundays and August. )

Many had recommended to us that Il Pizzaiuolo serves the best and most genuine Neapolitan pizza in town. It's located near the Santa Croce church and a 10 minute walk to the Duomo. The pizzeria is a small place, yet is informal and unpretentious. Having no reservations, we arrived 15 minutes before opening and found a waitress guarding the door so that the waiting patrons won't come in before the opening at 7:30pm. Luckily, we were led right in at 7:40pm. And the place quickly got crowded by locals, students and tourists.

The wood burning oven.
Pizza Margherita (6 ) - fresh mozzarella, tomatoes, and basil
The thin-crust pizza had a light, nicely charred edge and a good balance of tomato sauce and mozzarella. I wish they could have added a few more basil leaves though. Italians usually eat their pizzas with a fork and knife, so I tried following suit, but found it more satisfying just picking it up and taking a huge bit.. of course modestly.
Pasta con funghi porcini (9 ) - Ever since I ate the Sophia Loren pizza at Osteria La Buca in Los Angeles, I fell in love with porcini mushrooms. There's something about its rich and meaty flavor that is so distinct from the other mushrooms. At Il Pizzaiuolo, the mushrooms were much bigger, meatier, and more on the soft side - almost slimy I would say, but the flavors were intense and incredible. The portion here was very generous, lots of mushrooms and lots of pasta.
This pizzeria is quite popular with tourists and locals, so come early if you don't have reservations. There is a cover charge (coperte), as with most restaurants, for 2 per person.