Showing posts with label Rome. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Rome. Show all posts

10.10.2009

Gelatissimo!

Nothing is more satisfying and refreshing than a cup of fresh gelato while touring the beautiful Italian sites.  We had gelato just about twice a day (at least).  Here's a compilation of the delightful gelaterias we visited. 

Gelateria Stalin (Via Visconti, 24, Vernazza, Cinque Terre)
After ordering your gelato, sit outside around the corner at the benches and tables or head down to the scenic harbor.
 
Il Gelato di San Crispino (Rome)
Via della Panetteria (near Trevi Fountain)
Some say this is the best gelato in Rome. I ordered half Ginger and Cinammon and then Honey Cream (3 euros for coppetta).  Both were very creamy and wonderfully flavorful.  They're served in a cup only, no cones. Grab some fine gelato and people watch at the nearby Trevi Fountain.

 
Old Bridge Gelateria (Rome)
Via dei Bastioni di Michelangelo
Before heading to the Vatican, we stopped for some gelato, because we were expecting to wait  a couple of hours in line for the Vatican Museum. For only 2 euros, you can get 3 huge scoops of different flavors.  What an amazing deal! Can't miss this gelateria with the long lines. Even nuns frequent here. Some of the flavors shown below are pistachio, coconut, nutella, chocolate, strawberry and lemon. We even got more gelato after we finished touring the Vatican and St. Peter's Basilica.  (Hint: We went to the Vatican at 12:30pm after the tour groups left, and there were absolutely NO lines!)  


Gelateria Centrale (Monterosso, Cinque Terre)
There were quite a few of Gelateria Centrale in Cinque Terre.  Two actually in Riomaggiore.  We got our staple flavors: strawberry and lemon - a delicious contrast of sweet and tangy.
 
Gelatissimo - (Florence)
Via di San Giuseppe, 4R
This gelateria was a bit off the beaten track.  It was still refreshingly good and smooth, but nothing incredibly special.  We got our usual flavors: strawberry and lemon.


Gelateria Carabe (Florence )
Via Ricasoli 60r
Located a block south of the Accademia, we got to try homemade Sicilian gelato with ingredients shipped in from Sicily.  We wanted a break from the creamy gelato and ordered the granita (slush-type dessert/drink) which originated from Sicily.  Again, we got strawberry and lemon.  It was quite refreshing and you can taste the real flavors. It's usually served with a spoon and straw to experience both of the flavors.
 
Festival del Gelato (Florence)
Via del Corso 75r (just off Via dei Calzaiuoli)
This gelateria can't be missed with the big neon sign and the colorful decor inside.  It's just a few steps from the most touristy and busy street of Florence - Via dei Calzaiuoli (it's the long pedestrian street that connects the Duomo with Piazza della Signoria).  Strawberry and lemon granita once again. And again, so refreshing.
 
Giolitti (Rome) 
Via Uffici dei Vicario 40 (Near the Pantheon)
The most popular gelateria in Rome.  And the most crowded.  Get in line to pay first, receive your ticket, and then go to the gelato counter to order your scoops. It has excellent gelato - creamy and very smooth, but can be pricey. My husband and I usually share, which consequently means we have to compromise. I like chocolate; he likes fruity flavors. So we asked the guy what "fruity" flavor goes with dark chocolate.  He scooped for us watermelon with chocolate chips and cantaloupe, topped with whip cream. Strange combination of flavors, but surprisingly, they all went very well together. 



 
La Boutique del Gelato (Venice)
(corner of Salizada San Lio and Calle Paradiso, next to Hotel Bruno)
The only way to know Venice is to just get lost. We weren't looking for La Boutique but stumbled upon it as we were exploring the city. I was so excited because this gelateria is considered the best in Venice.  It's recommended by every guidebook there is. (I might add that I spotted at least 10 people a day with the Rick Steves' guidebooks). Anyway, out of all the gelato we had on our trip, no other gelateria is as generous with their scoops as La Boutique (2 euros for 2 ginormous scoops) They were HUGE and I had to quickly eat it before it quickly melted away.  Definitely a must visit!
 
Michielango (Venice, Italy)
Salizada Pio X
This place was not as generous (probably about half the size of La Boutique and was more expensive (2.5 euros for 2 mediocre-sized scoops). I guess the location is convenient though - near the Rialto Bridge.  I would pass on this and find La Boutique del Gelato.

9.22.2009

Trattoria Da Gino - Rome, Italy

Vicolo Rosini 4, Rome 00186 
Tel. 06-6873434 
Cash only

For authentic Roman cuisine, try Da Gino, which is off the tourist beaten track near the Piazza del Parlamento. The restaurant is in a curvy, narrow hidden alley. There is a "trattoria" sign on Via de Campo Marzio that will point you to the right direction. Reservations are highly recommended, but we were walk-ins and were told to wait an hour and a half. Luckily, though, after an hour, I lingered around in the front for the hostess to notice me, which she did, and we were seated within 5 minutes.
Here is the hostess. She can be friendly if you're really sweet to her.

We ordered a carafe of the house wine (vino roso) and our usual appetizer - the proscuitto and melon, which was refreshingly sweet.


 We ordered a wonderful fettuccine pasta with bolognese sauce and minced beef.

 Next, I had to order the tripe with tomato sauce. The tripe was so soft and delicate. A truly amazing dish.

Next, I had to order the tripe with tomato sauce. The tripe was so soft and delicate. A truly amazing dish.

Our waiter (there were only 2 that night) was graciously friendly in helping us order and serving our entrees.  He knew we were sharing our dishes and would bring out our meal and split it for us.  He provided excellent service which made our last Roman meal more enjoyable.

The restaurant is so hidden from the main Roman sights that it feels homey and "Italian."  Locals and politicians frequent here - being next to the Rome's Parliament. Great service and great food! What more could I ask for.

9.17.2009

Pizzeria da Baffetto - Rome, Italy

Via del Governo Vecchio, 114
Roma, Italy
Tel. 06.6861617

Some say that Pizzeria da Baffetto is a Roman institution not to be missed! This popular pizzeria is very close by to Piazza Navona, and you can't miss the long line outside even before the restaurant opens. It's only open for dinner (some say only tourists eat pizza for lunch). Baffetto definitely has a family feel, with nostalgic photographs of the father (who was also working) with many celebrities and guests covering the wall, and the resembling son taking orders and delivering the hot pizzas to the tables. The old gentleman sat us at a table with one other person who was a pilot from Spain and frequents Baffetto almost every time he has a stopover in Rome. It was nice to know that even foreigners are regulars here and love the food, despite the rude and abrupt service.
The menu was quite extensive with many choices to choose from. I suggest ordering some appetizers, such as bruschetta, beforehand because only 2 guys operate the wood-fire oven cooking pizzas for the whole restaurant (we waited 30 minutes after ordering to finally eat).

We first ordered the most famous Pizza Baffetto (8 €) with pomodoro (tomato sauce), mozzarella, funghi (mushrooms), sahiccia, uovo (eggs), carciofini (artichokes), cipolla (onions), peperoni (red peppers). Pizzas here are thin and crisp, but the runny yolk made the middle of the pizza a bit soggy after awhile. I never had egg yolk on top of my pizza before...but the flavors were pretty mild and melded very well together. And the delicious tomato was light and sweet.

Next, was the Pizza Bresaola, Rucola e Parmigiano (9 €) which had pomodoro, mozzarella, bresaola (air-cured meat), rucola (arugula), and parmigiano. The flavors in this pizza was more distinct than the Baffetto pizza with more of a bite from the arugula and the saltiness of the bresaola. The thin and light crust stayed quite crispy - just the way I like it! I liked this pizza very much! Very light and delicious!

I would definitely like to come back here one day and line up with the locals, the outnumbering tourists, the soccer players and hopefully run into some celebrities. The pizzas were very tasty and there are many other pizzas to try. Another restaurant, Baffetto 2, also opened in Piazza del Teatro di Pompeo 18 (near Campo dei Fiori).

9.12.2009

Trattoria Luzzi - Rome, Italy

Via dei San Giovanni in Laterano
(On the corner of Via Celimontana, near the Church of San Clemente)

We wanted to eat where the locals eat, and still be near the biggest tourist spot - the Colosseum. Our B&B hostess suggested one of her favorites - Luzzi, which is just a 5 minute walk from the Colosseum.

That day, the weather was gloomy, hinting of rain. The surrounding neighborhood was empty and quiet. But as we walked closer to the restaurant, we heard the clattering of glasses and plates and people's voices talking over one another. They sat us inside, which was so tight. We had to squeeze our way through and the waiter had to pull out the table just for my husband can sit. There was practically no space between me and the next person.

I have to say the service was horrible and the staff was brusque and rude. When we sat down, my husband said "thank you" in English. Big mistake. The waiter muttered something rather rudely in Italian and the couple next to us were laughing. From then on, it took us a long time to order, to get our food and to get our check at the end. Though I'm sure the slow service was due mostly to the big crowds. Good thing we weren't on a time schedule. If you're planning to have sit down meals in Italy, I think 2 hours need to be allocated.

Anyway, on to the food. I ordered the Penne all'Arrabbiata, a traditional dish from Rome and central Italy. A very simple dish with tomato sauce, garlic, parsley, and red chili peppers cooked in olive oil. This pasta dish was excellent. The sauce was light and sweet and the peppers gave a nice kick to it.

My husband ordered the Rigatoni all'amatriciana - tomato sauce, guanciale (pancetta or dried pork cheek), and red chili peppers. The sauce was really good, similar to the arrabbiata, but more dense because of the pork flavorings. However, the rigatoni was undercooked! It was still edible, but very disappointing.

The dishes were only 5.50 euros each which was great. Plus, it is conveniently close to the Colosseum. It's worth a stop to Luzzi, but be prepared for the unfriendly staff and the long wait. But I guess everything in Italy is slow. Trains, buses, food service. But you have no control. Just go with the flow and enjoy.